Here’s a thought to open with — the summer of 2018 has been one of the hottest ever, with many areas of Southern California setting new high records. In other words, a great time to decide to build a tiny house!
Before I could begin on the Tyvek housewrap, I had to complete the last framing element that had been lagging, mainly because of all the angled cuts I would have to make. The laundry room in Casita II is built over the tongue and has three main considerations:
- Cannot interfere with the tongue leveling jack
- Cannot impede turning while towing
- Has to tie into the loft pop-out directly above
I started by building a subframe that would mount to the body of the trailer and rest on top of the tongue. For this, I used 2 x 6 pressure-treated wood and galvanized steel flashing on the bottom. After insulation, vapor barrier and subfloor, I started on the frame.
Due to the shape of the tongue, I had to rip 2 x 3’s at 45-degree angles for the corners of the laundry room frame. I had plenty of leftover plywood for the wall sheathing.
I’ve had such a difficult time getting roof materials that I opted for a good temporary solution that will also serve as a very sturdy underlayment when we finally do get our metal roof installed. Larger metal suppliers not only won’t sell to me because I’m not a licensed distributor, but many require a minimum square footage order that exceeds Casita II by 20 times or more! Smaller, local contractors won’t sell to me because they have been busy with bigger customers. I did find one place who would sell to me if I let them install as well, but this pushed the price tag up quite a bit and I am intent on doing as much of this build as possible. At the time of writing this post, I have no solid leads on getting our roof.
After watching numerous videos of people struggling with the wind to install the full 6 ft. Tyvek, I was happy to find that it comes in half sizes as well. I suppose I could have always cut a full roll in half with the chop saw, but ordering these 3 ft. rolls from Amazon was very convenient. Using plastic cap nails to attach, the housewrap went on easily and mostly wrinkle-free. I also found that a tool belt was helpful since I often had to start a roll, sink a few nails, then cut and tape the seams while maintaining a straight placement.
Before installing the windows and doors, I remeasured all the rough openings and verified they were square. There were a few spots that were slightly off which were corrected with shims. Two of our windows are sliders and they were more difficult to install than all the others, which are awning windows.
This is embarrassing, but I installed the window upside-down the first time. I placed in into the rough opening from the outside, but had I taken a bit more care, I would have noticed the sticker that clearly reads, “This side up.” This was only a few nails to remove, so it was not catastrophic by any means.
The slider windows have removable panes, so I took them out to install more easily. Without the panes, however, the window frame becomes much more pliable and can easily be pulled out of square. Even though I leveled all sides, I must have pushed one side when attaching with roofing nails. By this point, I had completely nailed, caulked, and flashed the entire window and had to undo it all using extra caution so as not to damage the window frame.
This was easily preventable and took about 2 hours to correct.
The next focus will be on getting the siding installed and looking for metal roof options.
Sprint 5 Totals
CURRENT PROJECT COST = $18,694.32
CURRENT PROJECT HOURS = 362.50
See you soon 🙂